It is an early morning as I prepare myself for a long journey to the Cliffs of Moher. It seems very quiet when walking along the street of the neighborhood I lived in. Meeting up with my tour guide from Paddywagon company in Dublin city center right outside Savoy Cinema together with other travelers.
It is very confusing at first when looking for the bus in green color because many other tour operators had their buses painted in green and pick their passengers at the same spot. At around 7.45 a.m., the bus finally arrive and begin to leave Dublin. The journey takes about 2 hours, traveling from the east to the west of Ireland.
Before heading into the town of Galway, we stop over to visit Dunguaire Castle along the southeastern shore of Galway Bay in the village of Kinvara. This 16th century tower got its name from the Dun of King Guaire, the legendary king of Connacht. It was used to filmed the movie Gun in the Heather in 1969 and North Sea Hijack in 1979.
This couple welcome visitors to their village and play Irish folk music near the entrance of the castle.
As we drive through the Burren, stone walls can be seen along the green fields where there is just one or no houses around them. During the 1600s, the British took the land owned and farmed by the Irish for generations and those families ended up become tenants. They were forced to pay rent to the British landlords for land they owned. Some landlords forced the communities off their land. As the result, many women, children and elderly died by the sides of the roads during winter.
Yet there were others who were willing to help the tenant farmers (former landowners) by creating work for them. When the blight destroyed the potato crops in 1845, it caused many hardship for them because there was no food to sell to cover the rent money and result to food scarcity.
One landlord offered work to provide income for his tenants by asking them to built stone walls- the walls which served no purpose except to provide a penny each day to those who worked. This is why they are called Penny Wall or Famine Wall that are 8-10 feet high, 3 feet wide and stretch for 300 yards.
Stopping by the coast of Gortacarnaun to enjoy the breathtaking view of its landscape. The area is formed mainly from limestones and also sandstones and mudstones about 300 million years ago. Some of the stones contain fossils of corals, crinoids, sea urchins and ammonites.
We rest at Doolin town and grab lunch. There is one street of shops with three bars, a gift shops and a florist store. Right opposite those shops is a guest house. So with this limited choices, I just go with the bar with the most people and also recommended by my guide.
Later, we make our way to our main attraction of the day, the Cliffs of Moher. Our guide inform us that it is very foggy and the tour group that come before us leave without able to see even a slightest thing. We were given one and the half hour to explore and I still keep my fingers crossed, hoping that by then, the strong wind can blow the sea fog away.
It is very windy and the weather pretty cold which least expected during summer season. Walking toward the highest point of the cliffs is O’Brien’s Tower, built by local landlord Sir Cornellius O’Brien in 1835. The stone tower was used as an observation tower and had initially served as a tea house, featuring a large round table with seats of ironwork. It stands 214 meters above the Atlantic Ocean’s sea level.
After patiently waited for half an hour, I would see the magnificent view of this UNESCO site. It is by luck that the wind clear the fog away. There is a cruise ferrying tourists to see this natural landscape from the sea. There is also an unofficial path run closer to its edge that can see all the way down to the beach. Unfortunately, I wouldn’t see the Aran Islands, The Twelves Pins, Maum Turk Mountains in Connemara or Loop Head of the South because the fog is still visible in a near distance. Those sights can usually be seen during clear sky.
The Cliffs of Moher get its name from a ruined promontory fort “Mohtar” which was demolished during the Napoleonic wars to make room for a signal tower at Hag’s Head. This natural wonder is a Special Protected Area under the E.U. Birds Directive 1979, home to Ireland’s largest mainland seabird nesting colony with 20 species of nesting breeding seabirds and up to 30,000 breeding pairs.
The formation happened about 320 million years ago during the Upper Carboniferous period. This area was much warmer and was situated at the mouth of a larger river. The river flowed down and bring mud and sand with it, eventually dumping it all over this area where it settled and formed the rock layers that existed today.
The movie scene of Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince and music videos including Maroon 5’s “Runaway” and Westlife’s “My Love” were filmed here.
Also visit the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience, a modern visitor center built into the hillside approaching the cliffs. What’s most attractive inside is the large multimedia screen that show a bird’s eye view of the cliffs and a video from the underwater caves below the surface. It gives an overall idea of the cliffs’ geology, history, flora and fauna.
As it draw close to the end of the trip, we make a final stop at Shannon town. I can’t say much about this place because there is not enough time to wander around. The only highlight here is this 15th century medieval Norman fortress of Bunratty & Lahinch.
Soon after the break, we travel another 220 km to Dublin and reach back at 6.30 p.m. Looking back at the entire trip, I have been grateful enough to admire this stunning Cliffs of Moher during my visit in such unpredictable weather. So, I have another place to cross out of my travel bucket.
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